We were in need of a break. A few days to pause and rest, ideally in a place with some space, greenery and please … a bit of quiet. Ideals don’t always exist in India and the images that I create in my mind from reading travel guides do not always match the reality. But on this occasion the description of Orchha fulfilled the hopes I had harboured. A mediaeval city, with a magical tiered palace, soaring temple spires and grand sandstone cenotaphs. A wide boulder strewn river, green fields and refeshingly clean air. An India I had yearned for but feared did not exist.