Secrets at Dawn

I am used to the piercing crow of haughty, splendidly plumed cockerels waking me from my sleep, but this morning, deep in the jungle of the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maiz, it was the the throaty bark of howler monkeys that cut through the thick silence of the early dawn. Continue reading


The motorised, blue fishing launch cuts easily through the light chop of the water in the Padre Ramos estuary. The broad, ragged rim of Volcan Cosiguina lies before us, spent and burnt out after its violent eruption 180 years ago. Behind us the perfect cone shape of San Cristobal, the tallest volcano in Nicaragua and still active, exudes a constant stream of grey smoke and gases. Bordering the estuary Continue reading

Back to School


Eight o’clock in the morning and the sun is already high in the sky and the heat is intense. Walking hurriedly along the few blocks to our destination with the weight of our backpacks on, results in rivulets sweat and squinting eyes. It’s our first day at Spanish school in Granda (Nicaragua) and we are late. Continue reading